Wine is made for food. And is there a more food-friendly white wine than Sauvignon Blanc? Recent classes I’ve conducted, visits to trade tastings, and attendance at wine tasting group meetings have yielded a fresh slate of delicious choices. I didn’t approach these events with any particular agenda, but to my surprise it was this grape variety that jumped out at me. SB epitomizes the worldwide trend of improved quality since it thrives in most New and Old World climes. What a shame this grape variety has recently slipped into 3rd place in the US white wine market, its perennial “Avis” status now supplanted by the bland and boring Pinot Grigio.

If the tasting notes below sound alike it’s because the wines do have a certain similarity. This is a grape variety with character (most Pinot Grigios aren’t) so it’s not for everyone. They all show pure SB character, typically grassy/green/herbal notes, light body, and are usually un-obscured by new oak. High acidity is another trademark of this Varietal, but the wines below are all made in what I call the world style, i.e. any hard edges are tamed, so their acidity is moderate. Cat Pee (!) characters sometimes show up in cooler climate versions, like those from the Loire Valley and Bordeaux in France. But the lone Euro example here is from the freakishly hot and dry ‘03 vintage so this wine may lack a certain typical acidity and it’s probably the better for it.

These wines won’t get better in the bottle with age; indeed, they will fade within a year or two. Wines are in alphabetical order; prices listed are undiscounted NYS suggested retail.

Cheverny Blanc, Salvard, Loire Valley, France, ‘03 $12
Local wine regulations oblige producers to blend in 5-10% other grape varieties, usually chardonnay. The result is an SB with a delicate style, un-oaked, a bit softer (lower in acidity) than usual, and a pretty, fine, fresh, and lively wine.

Estate White, Ktima Pavlidis, Drama, Greece, ‘04 $7.50
Yes, Greece. Drama is the northern regional source of this sauvignon blanc/assyrtiko blend. The much more distinctive SB dominates this very fresh, light-bodied, crisp, straightforward wine. No oak here, just lively SB that is the better for being tempered by the other grape. Very strong value. If I were still in the resto biz I’d serve it by the glass.

Geyser Peak, CA, ‘04 $10
This wine is consistently good year-in, year-out. A strong candidate for use in wine classes to show novice wine drinkers what this grape is supposed to taste like. Straightforward, no oak, softer style, light body, very good value.

Jardin, Stellenbosch, S. Africa, ‘04 $14
Pronounce this winery jar-din. Pretty, fresh, light-bodied, fine, straightforward, with moderate acidity. Another wine class wine. This country is doing very good things with this grape, and this is a good example.

Terranoble, Chile, ‘05 $8
The vintage is not a typo; this wine was already on the market in September. Another very good candidate for showing students what this grape tastes like. Straightforward style, in your face (forward, in wine-speak), pure, fresh, on the light-bodied side, no oak and lots of length. Chile delivers strong value once again.

Villa Maria, Marlborough, New Zealand, ‘04 $12
Good example of why New Zealand may be winning the race to produce the world's best SBs. Forward, very aromatic, the trademark pungency of this Varietal here gives way to a range of herbal/vegetal smells that cross over into fruit like green apple and kiwi. Softer acidity, no oak, and light body. In the past couple of years I’ve noticed NZ SBs are showing up much more often on mainstream wine lists.