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Wine Currents
May 2005
ALSACE GEWURZTRAMINER
By Bertrand Denoune
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Introduction
One of Europe’s most popular wines is
Gewurtztraminer (Spiceling) and is often paired with spicy foods.
While I personally feel it goes great with high spice profile Asian
and Latino Cuisines, many Americans just can’t seem to get by this
wine’s name. I asked Frenchman Bertrand Denoune, Sales Manager for
Lucien Albrecht of Alsace, France, if he would write a short piece
to educate us about Gewurtz.
If you are not familiar with Lucien Albrecht (Depuis
1698), you can visit their web site, www.lucien-albrecht.com. This
company is particularly known for its award-winning Blanc de Blancs
Cremant Sparkling Wine. I fell in love with their recent vintage of
Pinot Noir Amplus 01. Of course, their Gewurtztraminer is to die
for!
Bertrand can be reached at
b.denoune@lucien-albrecht.fr
Cheers!
Peter |
Gewurztraminer is a particularly aromatic clone of
Traminer or Savagnin rose, which was grown in Alsace for centuries.
Earlier in the 20th century, many growers presented both a Traminer and a
Gewurztraminer, the latter being the spiciest of the two. Since January
1973, the Traminer is no longer grown.
Gewurztraminer thrives in Alsace where the vineyards are
sheltered by the Vosges Mountains, which also limit the rainfall. The
vineyards benefit from cold winters which give them a respite, warm and
sunny Summers, low rainfall and a long growing season with often
exceptionally fine Autumns, which preserve the aromatic character of the
varietals and bring out a better balance between alcohol, acidity and
flavour.
Alsace grape varieties are vinified in wines which are
drier and fuller than their new world counterparts, with alcohol levels in
line with the rest of France. Direct fruit flavor is the main draw, oak is
irrelevant.
Gewurztraminer is the most distinctive wine of Alsace.
When you pour a glass, it’s almost like a punch in your face with rich,
exotic flavors : Litchee, mango, grapefruit, rose or ylang-ylang. You
can’t ignore it.
Nearly all Alsace Gewurztraminer are dry, but never seem
bone dry. The richness of fruit and fatness of texture see to that. It is
precisely the lack of obvious acidity that gives Gewurztraminer it’s broad
ripe, style.
In Alsace sweet versions, Vendanges Tardives, are
produced by picking the grapes late in the season when the natural sugar
has increased. And even sweeter versions, Sélections de Grains Nobles, are
made from naturally Botrytis-affected grapes that have shrivelled and
dried on the vine.
In America, Gewurztraminer from Washington and California
do not have such an overpowering smell and taste, and are more sweetish.
These are largely available in the States and therefore are often
considered by many consumers as a reference, thus creating some confusion,
or misunderstanding with the French Alsace Gewurztraminer.
Alsace Gewurztraminer can be drunk on his own as a
conversation wine. In accompaniment, it needs strong, rich flavours to
balance it. Oily fish, in particular smoked salmon, match that character
in the wine. It’s generalized spicyness matches very well with foie gras,
rich and spicy Oriental food or blue-veined cheese.
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