Wine Currents
December 2004

WINE CURRENTS WITH THE CIA

FOCUS ON WHITE…

In White wine, natural acidity plays a very important role. Not only does it give the wine its lifeline and backbone, it forms a flavor foundation for the wine as well. The type of acid tasted in wine affects the flavor harmony.

There are many different natural acids in grapes and wine. Here are a few:

Tartic acid: Primary natural acid in grapes and wine
Citric acid: Predominant acid of citrus fruits
Malic acid: Primary acid of apples and pears
Lactic acid: The acid in buttermilk, cheese, and yogurt

In order for a food to complement a particular wine, it must have flavors that have similar characteristics as the wine. Start with the acid, or the backbone of the wine, and build complexity by filling in with flavors that you taste naturally in the wine.

CITRIC ACID: Lemony or citrus-like quality

MALIC ACID: An apple, peach, pear, or melon-like character, or if it has a pleasant fresh fruit aroma and flavor

LACTIC ACID: A creamy or buttery flavor and aroma

These acids might not stand out singly but rather in combination, a delicate balance of nature, perfected by the winemaker.

Understanding a bit about these acids makes wine and food pairing easier. There is one very important reaction in creating wines that affects the resulting acid level. It is called Malo-Lactic fermentation. This is a secondary fermentation carried out by friendly bacteria which converts Malic Acid to Lactic Acid. Malo-lactic acid fermentation often changes the acidic taste of the wine to a more “buttery” or “creamy” taste, because the tart tastes of malic acid is replaced by the softer taste of lactic. After Malo-Lactic, the wine is less likely to be perceived as sharp or as acidic.

Complements or contrasts with wine and food can be very straightforward or complex. Here are some of the straightforward examples of simple complements and contrasts:

Sauvignon Blanc

Simple Complement: Oyster
Simple Contrast: Smoked Salmon

Chardonnay

Simple Complement: Cream of Tomato Soup
Simple Contrast: Gazpacho Soup

Sweet Riesling

Simple Complement: Fresh Peach
Simple Contrast: Roquefort Cheese

For example, if you taste a grassy, almost lemony freshness in a Sauvignon Blanc, you might visualize a dish that combines grilled Ahi Tuna with lemon and chive.

If the wine has not gone through malo-lactic fermentation, the noticeable acids are most likely malic acid and citric acid.

At this point, you can make a complex complement or contrast depending on the type of cooking style desired. You could use broth, butter, or a type of oil (olive, walnut, peanut, sunflower, etc.) to prepare the dish. Here are two examples with the same fish and basic ingredients:

To complement the Sauvignon Blanc, Ahi with lemon chive might call for an oilbase sauce, maybe a vinaigrette with olive oil, shallots, lemon juice, fresh chopped chives and garlic. These same flavors could also complement the Sauvignon Blanc as a marinade before the fish was grilled or cooked. The citrus flavors for a highlight to contrast the Sauvignon Blanc would come from a lemon butter put on the hot fish just as it is served, or a pasta with a creamy lemon chive sauce.

These are just a few pointers to help you better enjoy the wines and foods you choose. Experiment and have fun!