Culinary Currents
March 2005

Chef Francis Rocks the Race Track

By Peter Langlois

I spent a couple hours on a recent Tuesday afternoon investigating the Sam Houston Race Track, which is located Northwest of downtown Houston. The thoroughbreds are running each weekend and attracting a nice crowd—about 6,000 a day—and I wondered what Foodservice was being offered to fans. The new executive chef, Francis Walters, walked me through the entire operation and shared his plans to re-invigorate the venue, which has recently celebrated its tenth anniversary.

Like any other chef, Francis is a change agent who wants to put his own signature on all the facilities. His background is certainly one that lends itself to a sporting venue. Prior to accepting this position, he had worked as the opening executive chef at the renowned Aquarium restaurant in Kemah, a growth vehicle for the Landry’s chain, and as the executive chef at one of Houston’s more romantic restaurants, the Rainbow Lodge, nestled in the shadows of River Oaks near Memorial Park on the Bayou. Obviously the Aquarium featured seafood. The Rainbow Lodge is known for its signature wild game dishes, including boar and duck.

Chef Francis intends to eventually feature his own flavor profiles of both seafood and wild game. He said he is currently preparing a number of items, including under-10 count jumbo shrimp and venison, for the executive suites perched atop the main building. The some twenty suites accommodate about 500 in total and are sold out every racing day. Haute Cuisine is the order of the day for horse owners and high profile companies that entertain selected clients and friends.

The Mezzanine, Jockey Club and Winner’s Circle accommodate about 2,000 and here also Chef Francis is upgrading the food, moving from convenience items to made-from-scratch. On a third floor in an area I would describe as a Bull Pen where hardcore gamblers hang out, he’s installing a Chicago Style Hot Dog Stand featuring all the condiments you’d find at Wrigley Field. In a number of areas, he’s upgrading from buffets to a scatter system that includes trendy Asian and Paella stations, marketed directly at females and others looking to eat lighter or different.

What really impressed me about Chef Francis, however, was not the food he was changing, but rather an attitude that can only be described as respectful and empathetic. “I’m a friend of the previous chef and he helped me get this position. Sure, I’m changing things to my way, but I’d never say anything negative about my predecessor.” That’s a great track to take: Take ownership yourself and move on your initiatives. Thankfully, there is a brotherhood among chefs.

For a recent Elvis-theme birthday concert, Francis and his crew made an 18-foot Guitar Cake. That’s rocking the racetrack, I’d say. I’m betting Chef Francis is going to be a big winner at this track.