Culinary Currents
January 2005

Anyone for Polo?

by Peter Langlois

I had the good fortune recently to talk with the owner of one of Houston’s landmark restaurants, The Post Oak Grill, located in the shadow of the Galleria, on Post Oak Lane. Polo Becerra, who purchased the restaurant from his mentor, Ethel Emerson, in July 2004, is engaging and savvy. I would describe him as an entrepreneur disguised as an executive chef, just as comfortable on the restaurant floor as working the sauté station or the broiler.

His story is a classic. “Polo” arrived from Mexico in the 80’s and found his way to The Post Oak Grill in 1989, where he started in the kitchen doing dishes and bussing. He had no money, but no doubt he had a drive and determination we all envy. Over the course of the next decade he bought into ownership, becoming a partner and working his way through the kitchen and the entire operation. “I borrowed money on basically nothing but faith from lenders. My word was given as a bond. I asked for and received trust,” he told me.

Keeping his word, he made a final payment early in 2004. Then he went back to the well one more time. This time he asked for enough money to buy out Ethel Emerson and become the owner. After due diligence, including several visits to the restaurants, the loan was made, and thus a dream was achieved.

Polo didn’t buy just any restaurant. When you enter the vestibule, the pictures and testimonials adorning the walls from Houston’s movers and shakers will strike you, including even national figures. Former President George H.W. Bush, “41,” and Barbara Bush are pictured on the wall with Polo. Just above that picture is “43,” our current President, George W. Bush, and our First Lady, Laura Bush. It seems “41,” an avid fisherman, is partial to seafood, while “43” enjoys a great variety of dishes.

Another photo shows Polo “slugging” the Greatest, Mohamed Ali. Ali has that patented grin indicating he’s enjoying the moment. Tons of trophies are also displayed, but Polo was quick to point out two that were treasures. Over the last two years, consumer crusader Marvin Zindler as one of his select Blue Ribbon Restaurants has recognized The Post Oak Grill.

What really struck me, however, was the absolute commitment to guests that permeated the restaurant. In the booths were brass placards with guests names inscribed, indicating this was “their” booth, the place where they celebrated birthdays, anniversaries, etc. How many restaurateurs have that much confidence that guests have been so satisfied that they’d glue brass placards to reserve tables? Wow!

For more information on The Post Oak Grill, visit their web site, www.PostOakGrill.com, or simply join Polo and his team for a delightful lunch or dinner the next time you’re in Houston.