Culinary Currents
August 2005

Chef Marion Gillchrist: Austin’s Intimate La Traviata

By Peter Langlois

Marion Gillchrist admits she has always been a pretty lousy student, from her high school days at Stratford in Houston to a one-year stint at The California Culinary Academy, where she didn’t complete her degree. “I just couldn’t sit still in the classroom. It was all so boring,” she told me. What isn’t boring is the path Marion took to pursue and reach her dream of being a chef-owner.

Marion dove into jobs in Austin, Santa Fe, N.M. (Coyote Café) and Dallas (Stephan Pyles Star Canyon), getting involved in the opening of six restaurants along the way. She told me she learned so much about starting up a business, both what to do and just as important what not to do in order to be successful. “For me, learning took place not in a classroom but rather in the kitchen and in the rest of the restaurant. I found my passion in the 14-hour days and the six-day-a-week grind. It’s all about being there (in the operation).”

In 2000, after working in Santa Fe on and off for thirteen years, Marion felt ready to pursue the ultimate dream of owning a restaurant in Austin. She sold her interest in the catering company she co-owned in Santa Fe to her partner to use as a stake while she found the right building and location in Austin. She had in mind a smallish rectangle similar to the successful restaurants she had come to know in New York City and San Francisco through her travels. Those are her two cities to visit to enjoy the best restaurants and find ideas to bring to her own table.

Once she found her site in Austin, financing became a primary issue. She felt it would be too difficult to obtain an S.B.A. loan, so she turned to those who believed in her, her parents and relatives. With her brother and sister-in-law as partners, she opened what is now a 54-seat restaurant with bar that features Carbonara, Fettuccini with mushrooms and artichokes, and Duck Confit as house specialties. She swears by imported Italian pasta. “I wouldn’t think about using about anything but the real stuff.”

While Chef Marion feigns business acumen, she has been able to pay off her parents and buy out her brother and sister-in-law in five years, quite an accomplishment. Meanwhile, she says that while her passion still lies in the creativity of the kitchen, the responsibility of ownership takes up a great deal of her time.

She offered some advice to young people who get caught up in the glamour of being a chef: “Work in the business before you go to culinary school.” While television and so-called reality restaurant shows portray a business of/for celebrities, it’s not like that at all, according to Chef Marion: “It’s hard work, and you’ve got to come to grips with that. Finding out during an internship that you picked the wrong field is a financial disaster. Culinary schools are so expensive! Make sure this is what you want. Spending your parents money only to find out this isn’t for you can turn into a big guilt trip.”

Wow! That’s what I call sage advice. I wonder why so many don’t get that it is a combination of work experience (preferably early on) along with education that gives young people the best chance of success? Toques off to Marion who found her passion and a way to live her dream!

 

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Peter Langlois is founder of www.RestaurantU.com: Tools of the Trade for Business, for School, for Free!,co-editor of Weekly Restaurant Connections (e-Newsletter), Culinary Instructor, The Art Institute of Houston-Culinary, and Management, Marketing and e-business Facilitator at The University of Phoenix (Houston).  Langlois is also a Malcolm Baldrige 2005 Ambassador. He has a Political Science degree from Michigan State University (Modern International Chinese Relations) and an M.B.A from the University of Houston (Marketing and Business Strategies).  If you enjoyed this feature, you’ll probably enjoy his free newsletter available on www.RestaurantU.com.

 Contact information: 832.860.5595 or peter@restaurantu.com

 

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